For the Birds
14 years ago
Monday, October 31, 2016
Tuesday, October 25, 2016
READER MAIL
Hi John,
Have you seen the 100th anniversary Horsehide Wesco boots? The Jobmaster and the Boss ... What do you think?
Is it worth the money they cost? Do you know if they are available on line outside Japan?
Thank you very much!
Best regards from Spain,
M
Photo: Wesco Japan
Hi M,
I've been following these boots since the recent pre-order announcement and while you can't go wrong with a pair of Wesco Engineers, these boots seem to serve more as a celebratory offering of the company's centennial rather than a tribute to some early design. Having said that, I would be hard pressed to dish out ¥230,000 (or $2,200) for something I could have custom-built by Wesco for a third of this price.
Sure, they wouldn't be made with Horsehide leather, but having owned my share of Horsehide boots I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Photo: Wesco Japan
So far Japan is, and probably will be the only country offering them with a pre-order end date of 21 November 2016 and delivery date of October 2017.
Now, re-release the Horsehide Narrow Wesco Engineer Boots from 2010 that honors the company's period from the 1930's through 1950's with a few tweaks like brass hardware and #705 half-soles then they have my attention.
Photo: Wesco Japan
Monday, October 24, 2016
READER MAIL
John,
I really enjoy your blog and appreciate all of the helpful information you give. It was your blog that really got me to start loving engineer boots in the first place and now they're pretty much all that I wear.
I have a pair of Lofgren Engineers in Natural CXL that I love, but unfortunately got a mild cut on them recently, much more than a simple scuff. I have sense conditioned the boots (I was doing this with all of my boots anyway) and was wondering if there is anything else you would recommend doing to repair or at least mask this scratch. I can add a picture if that would help.
Also, I highly recommend checking out Clinch boots if you can. I have a pair and absolutely love them to the point that I have ordered a second pair. They are handwelted like Brian's boots are... though I am sure I am not the first person to tell you this.
Thanks and have a great day!
Jake
Hi Jake,
Thanks for the e-mail and kind words. It appears you're experiencing the same problem CJ asked about earlier this year. Here is was my response to the cut on his Buco boots back in January.
Hi CJ,
Bummer about the cut. Not to worry, though, there is an easy fix for it.
Back when we still wore leather combat boots (aka "Cadillac's") it was difficult to maintain our spit shines while working around equipment and a lot of the time we ended up with deep gouges and scrapes on our boots by the end of the day. Rather than risk being "corrected" by anyone of higher rank for not being squared away, we quickly learned how to repair these uniform discrepancies.
Here's what you'll need:
GLUE- Back then (over twenty years ago), Crazy Glue was my bonding liquid of choice, but after working with leather for so many years I learned that Elmer's (yes, school glue) works wonders as a leather bonding agent. There's also glue marketed specifically for leather work.
- Because yours is a straight forward cut and not a gouge with a flap, I'd personally use Crazy Glue.
POINTY OBJECT (fine point) - A sewing needle or bamboo skewer point to carefully apply the glue.
SANDPAPER (fine grit) - 1200 grit should do the job
LEATHER DYE (black)
Q-TIP
SHOE POLISH (black)
Instructions:
- To avoid accidentally applying too much glue on the leather, you'll want to squeeze some onto a piece of paper or cardboard.
- Using the needle or skewer, dab the tip and carefully apply it along length of the cut. Don't worry about overfilling the cut - you just don't want glue to drip anywhere outside of it. If this occurs, use a damp paper towel to wipe it right off.
- Once the glue is completely dry, use the sandpaper to even out the glue. Wipe the area clean with a damp paper towel and let dry.
- At this point, use a Q-Tip to carefully apply leather dye along the length of the cut, allow to dry. You can polish the boots to even everything out, or leave it as-is if you already have a nice patina.
This is a procedure I've done many times over the years, so I know it works.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
John
MOTO MONDAY
Victory Through Logistics
One of my collateral duties while in garrison was that of the Historical Program Manager and this video helped to paint the picture of the sacrifices that formed the 1st MLG's Honors and Lineage.
Semper Fi!
Sunday, October 23, 2016
MISTER FREEDOM® CAMPUS JACKET EVO UPDATE
Now that we've received some much-needed cool weather here in New Orleans, I can start pulling out the ol' leather jackets. Although the Mister Freedom® Campus Jacket is unlined, it was still much too nasty here in NOLA to wear during the oppressively hot and disgustingly humid season -- June through November. I look forward to adding more character to this amazingly versatile jacket.
Check out how I laid the foundation to get the jacket to its present form here
Saturday, October 22, 2016
READER MAIL
John,
Was hoping for a bit of advice.
Just picked up a pair of RRL engineers. So far I love em. Of course it's only been 2 days but they really have fit nicely from the jump. Got a great deal on them too, brand new.
Here's the thing: I just noticed that the inside stitching on the shaft, in the back, opened up a bit. I've attached a pic to show you. Is this something I need to be concerned with now, something to fix ASAP? I don't believe I can return or exchange as they are an eBay purchase and I've worn them for a couple days.
If they need immediate attention do you have any Brooklyn recommendations on a boot guy or is this something that a reasonably talented shoe repair place can handle?
Really appreciate your assistance.
Thanks,
Elly
Congrats on the boots! Do not lose sleep over those stitches. They'll be fine. They merely serve to close the shaft during construction while the backstay (strip of leather running up the outside back of the shaft) locks/supports it in place while also serving as a decorative aspect of the boots -- notice the double row of stitching flanking each side of the seam.
You can lose that seam and still not have worry about structure. For piece of mind, I recommend using a q-tip to apply glue (Elmer's school glue ... even crazy glue, which is a messier option) to the portion over the thread ends in order to prevent further unraveling -- a nice even coat. The glue will dry clear.
Cheers!
John
Saturday, October 15, 2016
MISTER FREE...DOG
Jillian surprised Wexler (and me, for that matter) with a plaid-lined denim Mister Freedom® vest. It looks like another piece is in the works as well =)
Monday, October 10, 2016
Tuesday, October 4, 2016
READER MAIL
Hi John!
So I took your advice and emailed Cristian at Mister Freedom to ask about Trooper Boots availability. I was excited to learn they had my size (9D) in brown! I purchased them and received them right away, amazing boots for sure, they are very comfortable too! I really like the construction and the materials, and of course the last.
Regarding the NOS fabric they use, do you recommend using Otter Wax on it, or do you think I should leave it as it is? How do you think they will age better? Hope you have a great weekend! Any other process or care that you recommend?
Take care,
Alfonso
Alfonso,
Thanks for the e-mail and congrats on the Troopers. These aren't your everyday, entry-level lace-up boots. These are fans of the brand ... fans of style ... fans of something not many people have. I'm forever telling my readers to either call or visit the shop if that "grail" MFSC item can't be found online.
If you plan on really wearing your Troopers like they owe you money through some severe inclement weather, then I say wax 'em (pick up a heat gun at your local hobby shop for a proper job). Heavily broken in leather will only be complemented by the waxed canvas.
On the other hand there's no real need for wax if you're just rocking them as average daily wear. You can always wax them later when/if deemed necessary, but there's no reversing the process if you decide to jump the gun.
Lastly, there's no need to condition new leather as this process is taken care of at the factory. It's not until prolonged exposure to the elements and heavy wear that the leather will require some attention. Occasional wiping with a damp cloth and a boot brush is all that's really needed.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
John
Monday, October 3, 2016
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