READER MAIL

Hi John, 

I am ordering my Role Clubs and had a question about the liner in the toe box. I'm trying to decide between having no liner for a more deflated toe box or go with the liner and letting it break in. What's your opinion on this, did you get your Role Clubs with liner or without?

Thanks for you help and expertise. This is my first pair of engineer boots so I want to get it right.

Thanks again,
Robert

www.vintageengineerboots.com

The flattened toe box today

Hi Robert,

 Congrats on the decision to order Brian's boots, man! Liner or no liner, the result will always be a flat toe box. In theory, the option to go with no liner will yield the best result, but the size of ones toes will ultimately determine how flat the box remains. Sure they'll "deflate" when not worn, but shove a foot with boot socks back in there and you quickly learn the flatness threshold. The thin leather liner, in my opinion, is that insurance your toes won't ultimately wear a hole through this high stress point after just five years of hard use.

My boots the day they arrived

Totally hypocritical of me since the next pair I'm currently working with Brian on will not have lining -- my first pair of his boots have it and I still get a highly desirable flat toes -- but having worn boots for the better half of twenty-six years, I know what I'm getting myself into (Engineers were made with and without lining in the good ol' days). For someone new to the Engineer Boot world like you, I recommend getting the liner. You won't be disappointed.

Cheers!
John

Thank you so much! I'll go with the liner. I'll get my boots around August and I'll be ordering one of your belts around then too.

Thanks,
Robert

MOTO MONDAY

Mechanized fire power.

www.vintageengineerboots.com

READER MAIL

Dear John,

I hope you are well and Happy New Year. I wished to ask your opinion regarding the boots I am going to have made with Brian. I came across Role Club on Instagram and was very impressed with what I saw and decided that, even though they will be my first pair of Engineer Boots, these are the boots for me. I am an apprentice English Bespoke tailor and I think that is partly what drew me to Brian as opposed to other companies. My question is regarding the heel hight, I am 6ft 2in and was wondering if the full stacked heal will be too much or is it simply a personal judgment call? I do want a boot with as close to in detail, as possible, to a 40’s/50’s boot does that mean the full heel? I am passionate collector and wearer of vintage and repro clothing and am therefore enjoy the authentic details.

Many thanks in advance and I very much enjoy reading your blog and your proposal to your wife was an absolute highlight of the Rebel Beat movie.

Take Care,
Sam

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

Sam, 

Greetings and Happy New Year! 

Good choice of boots. For someone on the fence with the heel shape and height, Brian is the guy to custom-build a pair of boots that suit your specific needs. You can't go wrong with either a short or full stacked heel as these profiles were both offered during that golden era of boots. 

Here's a low stacked and blocked heel that is consistent with early 1940's heel profiles

If adding to your height isn't a concern, then I would recommend going all out with a full stack -- it just completes the package for me.

Full stack

If you're on the fence, then you may want to consider removing a stack/lift or two

Single stack removed

It's a pleasure to share my knowledge and experiences on the blog and I'm honored that so many people find the information useful. 

Marriage proposal at Rudolpho's in Los Angeles

Ha! I'm so glad that special moment was captured on film. And to have it archived on Rebel Beat is such a treat.

Cheers!

John

READER MAIL

Happy new year, best wishes for this 2016!!

Thank you so much for publishing your knowledge so that we can learn about engineer boots. I just ordered a pair from Logfren of the badalassi leather and am on the wait list for a pair of black Road Champs, I don't know how I'll manage to be patient. 

Anyways, I have a question for you, I've seen that you have recommended several boot cobblers for resoling, etc. I have a pair of boots (not engineers, not vintage) that I purchased a while ago and loved for many years. They then needed resoling and I didn't know much about the process at the time. So one day I come back home and they had been resoled as a surprise. I was very happy about it, except later on I found out I didn't really like the quality of the resole and walking on them feels a bit off now. They are a pair of martin margiela boots and had a thin leather sole. Do you think any of the cobblers you mention would be able to re-resole them so that I can use them again? 

Thank you so much!!

Alfonso

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

My Chippewa Engineer Boots re-soled by Role Club

Alfonso,

Happy New Year to you!! I'm glad you enjoy the blog.

Wow! You are definitely on the fast track to a nice collection of Engineer Boots there. Congrats! 

Well, wasn't that a nice gesture to have your boots repaired. There are tons of repair shops out there, but there are only a few out there I would trust to do the job right. Any of the listed shops on my blog should do okay depending on the level of work you want done to your boots, however, there are only two on that list I've personally had experience with - Hukurokuju and Role Club. If in your position, I'd choose Brian at Role Club as Okuyama is located in Japan and a lot of people find it difficult to wrap their head around sending anything overseas for repair. 

Brian is a super nice guy and his attention to detail is second to none. He definitely has my business as long as he's around.

I hope this helps. 

Cheers!

John

RRL's BARRIGNER

Another addition to my list of jackets to buy. The Barrigner coat is a sweet piece of gear.

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

READER MAIL

Hi, John

I'm writing this email to ask you what I can do to fix a cut in my left BUCO boots as its shown in the pic attached. Although the cut don't seem too deep now because  I managed to cover it with Johnsons black shoe oil, yet I'd like to repair this open wound further.

I'm looking forward to your replies.

Regards

CJ
A big fan of your VEB blog

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

Hi CJ, 

Bummer about the cut. Not to worry, though, there is an easy fix for it. 

Back when we still wore leather combat boots (aka "Cadillac's") it was difficult to maintain our spit shines while working around equipment and a lot of the time we ended up with deep gouges and scrapes on our boots by the end of the day. Rather than risk being "corrected" by anyone of higher rank for not being squared away, we quickly learned how to repair these uniform discrepancies. 

Here's what you'll need:

GLUE- Back then (over twenty years ago), Crazy Glue was my bonding liquid of choice, but after working with leather for so many years I learned that Elmer's (yes, school glue) works wonders as a leather bonding agent. There's also glue marketed specifically for leather work. 

 - Because yours is a straight forward cut and not a gouge with a flap, I'd personally use Crazy Glue. 

POINTY OBJECT (fine point) - A sewing needle or bamboo skewer point to carefully apply the glue.

SANDPAPER (fine grit) - 1200 grit should do the job

LEATHER DYE (black) 

Q-TIP

SHOE POLISH (black)

Instructions:

- To avoid accidentally applying too much glue on the leather, you'll want to squeeze some onto a piece of paper or cardboard. 

- Using the needle or skewer, dab the tip and carefully apply it along length of the cut. Don't worry about overfilling the cut - you just don't want glue to drip anywhere outside of it. If this occurs, use a damp paper towel to wipe it right off. 

- Once the glue is completely dry, use the sandpaper to even out the glue. Wipe the area clean with a damp paper towel and let dry. 

- At this point, use a Q-Tip to carefully apply leather dye along the length of the cut, allow to dry. You can polish the boots to even everything out, or leave it as-is if you already have a nice patina.

This is a procedure I've done many times over the years, so I know it works. 

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

John

MOTO MONDAY

Standing on the platform, the extremely intimidating Slide for Life obstacle feels like a ten story drop. Luckily for me, I've never had an issue with upper body strength, so reaching the end of the rope proved to be fairly simple. At the center, however, Drill Instructors make it a bit more challenging by shaking the rope and the only thing preventing me from falling into the pool was the idea of having to go through the rest of the day with wet boots. Good times at Marine Corps Recruit Depot, San Diego back in 1995!

www.vintageengineerboots.com

READER MAIL

Most comfortable engineer boot?

So just like the subject says, I am looking for an engineer boot that provides that will be comfortable for standing on concrete for long periods of time. I currently have a pair of Chippewa engineer boots that feel like bricks on my feet, and there is little room inside for an insole. I realize comfort is subjective, but I think I am looking for something with a softer sole and room for an insole. Any recommendations? Possibly a softer sole on the Chippewas?

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Red Wing 2970

Hi Dave,
I owned two pairs of shorty Chippewa Moc Toe Engineer Boots with crepe wedge (aka Christy) soles and they were the most comfortable boots I ever owned. They have a pleasant springy, cushiony feel to them when you walk, perfect everyday shoes/boots, perfect for dog-walking, perfect for working in and they look damn good with premium denim!

My personal pair with original-style buckles

My personal pair with original-style buckles

The newer version of these shorty boots are the Chippewa 97879, but have the newer style buckles I'm not too fond of.

I also tried on the Red Wing 2970 Engineer and they proved to be just as comfortable as my shorty Chippewas.

Another Red Wing model you may want look into is the 2990 or 2991 (brown). They have a softer Nitrile Cork outsole.

Red Wing 2990

If you're dead set on the traditional sole, you may want to consider buying boots one half size up in order to allow for thick sneaker insoles. I use thick boot socks and have been wearing boots for over twenty-five years, so there's not a pair of boots that I don't find comfortable. Thick boot socks and sneaker insoles? Forget about it - I could run a marathon with this combo.

**Be mindful that these may not be the best option to help against nails penetrating the soles.

Hope this helps.
Cheers!
John

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2016!!!

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

VEB TOP 3 LIST OF CLASSIC-STYLE ENGINEER BOOT BRANDS (2015)

I had one lineup change from last years list, but this probably comes as no surprise to those that read my blog or follow my Instagram. Not much has really come out in the way of new Engineer Boots this past year, but companies that feel they have what it takes to try and dominate the market may want to step it up, because these boots are here to stay.

Check out last years list

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Mister Freedom® Road Champ Boots in black cowhide

Brand: Mister Freedom®
Model: Road Champ
Price: $949.95
Colors: Brown, Black
Sizes: 7-12
Released: 2009
Website
Shop
E-mail: sales@misterfreedom.com

John Lofgren in Natural Horween CXL

Brand: John Lofgren & Co.
Price: ¥107,784 - ¥118,584
Colors: Horween CXL in Black, Brown and Natural, Cognac (Badalassi), Sand (Suede)
Sizes: 6-12
Released: 2012
Website
Shop
E-mail: info@speedway-shop.com

Role Club in Horween CXL Horsehide

Brand: Role Club

Price: Custom made, so prices vary
Colors: Black, Brown, Dark Olive
Sizes: Custom
Released: 2014
Website
E-mail: brian@roleclub.com

READER MAIL

Hello sir,

You blog looks like one of a kind, and so I wanted to write with a quick question, if I may, regarding engineer boots.

In short, I am tired of wearing shoes that quickly wear out. Red Wing engineer boots, for example, look like they are a quality product that would last a great amount of time compared to what I've been wearing!

However, I'm curious - is it possible to wear engineer boots with dress pants? I work in a somewhat dressy environment (more on the casual end) - slacks, button up shirts, etc. I normally something like Sperrys, to give you an idea. Is it possible to pull off the engineer boot in a somewhat dressy setting?

And, if I may add, if you do think the look can be pulled off - do you have a Red Wing engineer boot that you especially recommend?

Thank you for your time. Happy holidays! NB

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Hello Nic,

Thank you for the kind words!

Engineer Boots can absolutely be worn with dress pants, however, there are things to consider.

I recommend choosing a pair of Engineer Boots with a lower or blocked heel (avoid overly bulbous or steel toes). These, for me, have proven to be super versatile for any type of wardrobe, from cuffed and uncuffed jeans to pinstriped slacks. Consider the economically-friendly Red Wing 2990/2991 ($320) or Frye Brando or indulge in the more pricey Phigvel Horsehide Engineer Boots ($870).

Red Wing 2990 - I've tried these on they are super comfy. When Christophe, John and Brian stop producing boots, these will be one of the first pairs of boots I'll turn to.

Red Wing  2991

Frye Brando (Not to be confused with the newer version, Rand, with unsightly buckles)

Phigvel Horsehide Engineer Boots

The Mister Freedom Road Champ (the new black model has a slightly lower heel than the first run) and John Lofgren Engineer Boots have a slightly higher stacked "Woodsman" heel, but both are definitely appropriate for casual wear. The Role Club heels can be custom-ordered to any height and shape. Expect to spend over nine bills for these "botique" boots, but they will last you a lifetime.

Also,choosing the proper pant length is crucial to pulling it off without looking either overly manicured or coming across as too sloppy.

Straight Hem - Pair your boots with a slim/narrow cut, straight leg flat front Chino (suitable for both formal and informal occasions) with a length that allows for no more than one break (creasing/folding) at the front where the pant legs meet the boots. For a more clean look, you can opt for a length without a break where it barely touches the boots. Caution should be exercised in order to avoid having it look like you're wearing high waters.

Cuffed Hem - Consider wearing cuffed slacks/chinos that have a slim/narrow cut and straight legs (or slight taper) without a break (or even a tiny bit higher) to show off that instep buckle. After all, isn't that the appeal of these timeless boots?

I hope this helps.

Cheers and Happy New Year!

John

MOTO MONDAY

Here's a sweet Flash by Tim Beck, tattooer from Peoria, Illinois.  I'm not the biggest fan of Star Wars, but I do appreciate good art. This one measures 8x10 and done on original antique paper. He's asking $250

www.FreedomInkTattoos.com

www.VintageEngineerBoots.com

MERRY CHRISTMAS 2015

There is nothing more magical than decorated trees, lights, presents, family and friends to brighten up your life. Merry Christmas!

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Steph Fowler Photography

MOTO MONDAY

1960

www.vintageengineerboots.com

ENDICOTT JOHNSON RANGERS

Brand: Ranger by Endicott Johnson
Circa:1950's
Color: Black
Size: 9
Measurements:
Length: 11 1/2”
Sole: Composition Half-Sole
Leather: Cowhide
Hardware: Nickel
Sold For: Best Offer from $500

There have been some very disappointing Vintage Engineer Boot offerings online in the past year or so and only came across these when my buddy Warren sent me the link. Unfortunately, they aren't without issues. Fortunately, the final price reflects their actual value - anything under the original asking price of five bills is a fair value for these in my book. Don't let missing straps or gussets deter you from a nice pair of Engineer Boots - With Brian Truong behind the wheel, the existing issues can be easily repaired. Congratulations to the new owner for snatching these up for a decent price.

www.vintageengineerboots.com