Vintage Engineer Boots: READER MAIL

Hi John,

I've had a bunch of fun reading your blog and following you on Instagram for the past few years. Good stuff - keep it coming!

I'm writing because you clearly have experience across a wide variety of brands and I'm curious about the break in of leather that different folks (Chippewa, Mr. Freedom, Attractions, Red Wing, etc.) use for their offerings.

Quick history. About 1.5 years ago, I decided to buy a pair of engineers. Based on what I could afford and after doing some reading, I settled on the Chippewa 27899's in black with contrasting soles. For a while I was happy, until I decided I liked a deflated toe profile better. Rather than sell the Chipps, I sent them off to Brian the Bootmaker and BOY did he do a nice job. He replaced the original Chippewa instep strap, pulled out the steel toe, replaced the soles with leather, relasted the toes.

All was well.

Now, after about 6 months of wear, and with the hope of developing some great broken in leather patina, I've started to notice that even wearing my Chipps "like they owe me cash," they seem not to be developing the kind of patina I've noticed in some of your photos. Is it the leather than Chippewa uses? Any idea what the deal is?

Thanks for your time and thoughts, and have a nice weekend!

Andrew in NYC

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Chippewa 27899

Andrew, Thank for your e-mail!
For the 27899’s, Chippewa uses a leather they call “Black Odessa” that is drum dyed. During this process, the hide is placed into a drum barrel where it is tumbled and left to absorb the dye … all the way through the leather. Those hoping to find boots to develop a vintage-style patina where the tanned leather, under natural wear over several years, becomes visible through the surface dye will be hard-pressed to find them in today's Chippewa's. To achieve this look on modern-day homage boots, one must find a pair that have had the color applied (painted or sprayed) onto the surface. Some brands to consider when looking for type of patina are Mister Freedom®, Attractions Co., Ltd.. and pretty much any model made with Horween Chromexcel leather. A simple identifier of boots that'll look better with age is the brown edges of the vamp, heel counter and straps ... and of course the inside shaft.

Mister Freedom® "Road Champ" and Attractions Co., Ltd. Horse Butt

Most times, when price is put in the forefront of deciding which boots to purchase, it's best to exercise patience and land the pair that will provide you with the most purchase pleasure. With the combined cost of the 27899's and cobbler modifications, you were on point with the Red Wing 9268's not too far from the Attractions boots and only about two weeks from the RC's.